Anubias Care Guide: Why They Struggle and How to Fix It

Anubias has a reputation for being easy — and it is, mostly. But "easy" doesn't mean "indestructible," and a few specific mistakes will have them dumping leaves or stalling indefinitely. This guide covers everything you need to know to keep any anubias species healthy and growing.

Understanding anubias: the basics

Anubias are rhizome plants — they grow from a thick, horizontal stem called a rhizome, from which both roots and leaves emerge. In the wild they grow attached to rocks and submerged wood along riverbanks in West and Central Africa, often in areas of moderate flow and dappled light.

This origin tells you almost everything about how to keep them:

• They attach to surfaces rather than rooting in substrate
• They prefer lower light levels
• They're slow growers — that's normal, not a problem
• They're tough, long-lived, and highly adaptable

The rhizome rule: never bury it

This is the number one mistake, and it will kill your anubias reliably. The rhizome must remain exposed — above the substrate, or attached to wood or rock. If you bury the rhizome in gravel or soil, it will rot within a few weeks. The roots can go into substrate, but the rhizome itself must stay free.

The correct approach is to tie the plant to driftwood or rock using cotton thread (which biodegrades), clear fishing line, or aquarium-safe superglue gel. Within a few weeks the roots will grip the surface on their own and the thread or glue is no longer needed.

Light requirements: less is more

Anubias are one of the few aquarium plants that actively perform better in lower light. High-intensity light causes algae to grow on their slow-moving leaves, which is one of the most common complaints from hobbyists. Place anubias in shaded areas — under the shadow of larger plants, in the lee of driftwood, or away from the centre of a powerful light beam.

Avoid placing them directly under or near the filter outlet too. Strong flow stresses them and can strip leaves. They prefer calm to moderate water movement.

Anubias species guide

Anubias nana

The most popular anubias and rightly so. Anubias nana stays compact — typically 5–10 cm in height — making it perfect for foreground and midground positions attached to small pieces of wood or rock. It's suitable for virtually any tank and is one of the most tolerant aquarium plants available.

Anubias barteri

Larger than nana, with broader leaves that can reach 10–15 cm. Anubias barteri makes an excellent midground or background plant in smaller tanks, and works well attached to larger pieces of driftwood where it can develop into an impressive specimen over time.

Anubias heterophylla

The giant of the anubias family, with large, bold leaves that can reach 20 cm or more. Anubias heterophylla is best suited to larger tanks as a background or statement plant. It has the same care requirements as the smaller species but needs space to develop.

Leaf drop after purchase: what's happening?

It's common for anubias to drop leaves after being moved to a new tank, especially if conditions are quite different from where they were grown. This is stress response — not a sign that you've killed the plant. The rhizome will survive and produce new leaves adapted to your specific conditions. Give it two to four weeks before worrying. As long as the rhizome itself remains firm and green (not soft or brown), the plant is still alive and will recover.

Algae on anubias leaves

Slow-growing leaves in a lit environment are an invitation for algae, particularly green spot algae and black beard algae (BBA). Prevention is better than cure:

• Position them in lower-light areas of the tank
• Ensure CO2 and nutrients are adequate — deficiencies trigger algae
• Keep lighting to 7 hours or less until your tank is stable

If algae is already established on the leaves, remove the worst-affected leaves individually. The plant will grow replacements. Alternatively, Neutro CO₂ liquid carbon applied directly to algae-covered leaves (in a brief daily spot dose) can help suppress BBA over several weeks.

Do anubias need CO2 or fertiliser?

No CO2 required — anubias are one of the best choices for non-CO2 setups. They do benefit from a good liquid fertiliser, particularly for iron (which keeps their leaves a rich green). Dose Neutro T daily and they'll thrive without any CO2 at all. If you want to pair a liquid carbon with the fertiliser, the Neutro Combo Low Tech kit is a convenient bundle.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my anubias losing leaves?

Leaf drop after moving to a new tank is normal transition stress. As long as the rhizome is firm, the plant will recover and produce new leaves. If leaf drop is persistent in an established tank, check light levels (too high causes stress), flow (too strong damages leaves), and whether the rhizome is accidentally buried.

How fast does anubias grow?

Very slowly — typically one or two new leaves per month under normal conditions. With CO2 and good fertiliser this can increase, but anubias will never be a fast grower. Don't mistake slow growth for a sick plant; a new leaf every three or four weeks from a small anubias nana is perfectly healthy.

Can I plant anubias in gravel?

No — the rhizome must not be buried. You can wedge the roots between pebbles or press them against gravel, but the rhizome itself must remain exposed. The best approach is to attach the plant to a piece of driftwood or rock using thread or aquarium-safe glue.

Why does my anubias have algae on the leaves?

Algae on anubias leaves is almost always caused by light that's too intense for their slow growth rate. Move them to a shadier position in the tank. Ensure CO2 and nutrients are adequate, remove heavily affected leaves, and new growth should come through cleaner.